Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Mykola Kanishevsky (Old and New)


But for all the new things in Kanish's house, he was proud to bring in a custom of the старе село. He put together a collage of photographs of his family and of his wife's family. The photos are framed and are hanging on a wall above an old harness for oxen.

Mykola Kanishevsky (Buildings)

A Comparison

1. Main House, 3 stories
2. Two-car Garage
3. Cabana for roasting shishkababs (aka шашлики)
4. Groundskeeper house
5. Outhouse for Groundskeeper
6. Shed
7. Jungle Gym
8. Fancy foot bridge over stream and pond
9. Smaller functional foot bridge over stream and pond (further down stream)
10. Paved parking spot for the backhoe
11. Paved parking spot for cars of guests
12. Fruit and vegetable garden in flower bed style
13. Flower beds
14. Fruit trees
15. Patio that easily fits an inflatable pool for 3 kids
16. Deck that easily fits table for 3 plus a cage for a large dog
Half-hour drive to Kyiv City Center

versus

1890 square feet of indoor living space plus balcony that fits 4 seated adults
in the Far West Village of Manhattan. 20 minute walk to the Ukrainian National Home

Mykola Kanishevsky (Appliances)

As I walked around Mykola's house, I noticed that he had far more appliances than he had in his old apartment. Not only did he have a fully-stocked kitchen with an oven, range, microwave and dishwasher, but his he had a laundry machine. All of his light fixtures were stylish and all of them had the compact flourecent lightbulbs. Here is an example of how the middle-class in Ukraine has leapfrogged over the States.
The front porch has compact florescent bulbs in the ceiling. They came in handy after we finished dinner and kept talking after the sun set at 9pm when Mykola pulled out a large stash of photo albums with pictures from 1992 - 1996. I'll need to ask him to digitize those images so that we can share them.

Mykola said that he picked out all the lighting fixtures himself. He traveled around Europe, the far East and into northern Africa. No doubt he paid attention to what he liked, then found ways to get it in Ukraine. Last summer, I saw many retail outlets with home decorating goods. The selection of lighting is considerably bigger than it was just 6 years ago.Mykola said that he did not work with an architect as such, but it's interesting how he figured out how to use skylights to bring light into a large staircase. The second floor has bedrooms that all open out onto an open area around the staircase. The master bedroom as a balcony.

The fixture in the kitchen is of the same style as the fixtures over the staircase. When I asked him if he'd designed it himself, he scoffed and said that he simply picked it up in a store.

The laundry machine (which most definitely was not part of his old apartment) is in the dressing room. What a great idea. He doesn't need to schlep his laundry up and down any stairs. Of course, the appliance is the super-energy efficient European design.

Finally as someone who has renovated her apartment in New York City within the past decade, I could not resist taking a picture of the master bath and, specifically the *Happy D* model toilet. Our architect has specified this very model for our renovation. Unfortunately, we were unable to install it without doing major alternations to our Manahttan condo. It wasn't worth it. Kanish, however, in бідна Україна', built himself a whole house and put the the cool, and hip appliance right where he wanted it.

Mykola Kanishevsky (House Tour)

Then:
A tiny one-room studio apartment with a microscopic kitchen and barely a window. Mykola made dinner for three guests. We huddled around a tiny table and used every possible surface to sit or to hold food and drink. The meal had many courses. The recipes were complex and delicious. Beverages were also in abundance. Valera picked me up and drove me home.

Now:
село Гореничі 1.5 км з Житомерської Траси
As soon as I called him, Mykola invited me over. We agreed to meet on Tuesday afternoon and have dinner. His son, Dima, is a bit older than my daughters, but we agreed to come over so the kids could play in the yards as Mykola and I caught up. Valera arranged a driver to pick us up at the apartment. After making it through cross-town, rush hour traffic in Kyiv, we turned of the main highway, onto a jughandle that would make NJ DOT proud and rode past a big sign that said Гореничі. The road shifted from asphalt to loose gravel.

Mykola's driver came out to navigate us to his house. We met him at the side of the road with a big field on the left. We turned right, onto a road that was paved even less that the one before it. Past a few rural homes, that were hanging together with cinder block and mortar. Around the free range chickens, past a few cows, down a steep decline and onto a perfectly manicured plaza of bricks. Laid out in a nice pattern, so we could park and face a house that sat far back, on the other side of a large lawn.

Mykola strolled off his second floor patio and came out to great us. A big dog beat him to the gate.


A few years ago, Mykola decided to leave his television career. He told me that he 'put it on a shelf' and started to build residential buildings full-time. As we walked me around his home, I saw that he not only put his TV career on a shelf, but he built himself a shelf to hold mementos of that career. (Actually, he built several shelves in his home to showcase the trophies, certificates, photos with famous people, and microphones that he has used.)


To walk around Mykola's house right now is a very different experience from walking around his old apartment. First of all, you can't see the whole place the minute you set foot across the door. Second of all, everything is clean and crisp. The walls are straight. The paint is white. The crumbling hodge-podge of patchwork linoleum floors and flowery wallpaper patterns composed of 'whatever was available at the time' is gone.


Mykola still loves to cook and he has designed his kitchen to make it easy to prepare and to serve food. It's big enough for an eat-in kitchen, and it opens out onto a covered terrace that has a table and chairs. The day I came over, Mykola made some simple dishes for the kids to eat on the lawn, while he and I had a simple pan fried fish steak with fresh green salad on his terrace. All the greens were from his garden. Fresh-picked berries were desert.


The living room flows from the kitchen. It is interesting in what is *not* in it. There is no table that can double up as a dining room table. There is no single overbearing well-unit that houses books, clothes, sheets, and pillows. It's a room for sitting. There is a working fire place. The windows are large so there is lots of natural light. In the States, it'd be called a 'living room.'

Dima is in elementary school. His room (he has a room!) is also light and airy. The square footage is definitely generous by Manhattan standards. His room has toys, a bed and a desk. My kids figured out how to play with the train sets pretty quickly. Dima is a student at the British International School in the center of Kyiv. He gets a ride there every day. When we visited he skipped his weekly tennis lesson so that he could entertain my daughters. I could have been having a conversation with a neighbor in the West Village.

Mykola Kanishevsky (Landscape)


Mykola is confident that his houses will continue to sell well. He told me what differentiates his designs from the other houses that are sprouting up in the Kyvian Suburbia. Front yard. His own house is set back from the road. It is the third house that he has built. All of them have had this design. The other two sold within a day of going on the market. I took this picture from his second floor balcony. You can see the parking spot for his truck (on the close side of the fence) as well as parking for guests (on the far side of the fence). The garage for their own cars is off to the left of the frame. Mykola was also proud of his fence. It is not an impenetrable brick wall of the style that is more common right now. His fence has brick posts, but the area between them is fairly open.


The back yard is very small. He put all the land in front of the house so that it will be in better proportion with the house. The main sightlines out of the house go towards the front lawn, directly to the land that he can control. Behind him are houses that are built in the current traditional style: heavy cinderblock monstrosity.

The garden was a hot button issue for Mykola.

He love to cook and he wants to have fresh vegetables. He is also a life-long resident of Ukraine, where every family who had any possibility whatsoever, carved out a scrap of land and planted their own food. Each season the family would trek out of town to the 'dacha' or the 'horod' and tend the garden. After the harvest, they're would be the obligatory fury of canning and preserving. Once the bitter grey winter settled in, you'd eat out of the jar and pull your own potatoes off your city balcony. Of course, this didn't come from some Michelle Obama/Michael Polin (GET LINK)-inspired desire boost healty eating. It was a simple, cold calculation to just be able to eat. Too many times in the last century, food was taken away by war, by famine, by purges, etc. It was simply in everyone's social DNA that you had to grow your own food (or be linked to a relative who did). The striking thing about Mykola's garden plot is that it does not take up the *entire* acerage of his lot that is not covered by a building. He built a lawn and even a playground. He put his crops in planting beds that look like flower beds. Mykola told me that he recently built a house for his elderly parents in a town nearby. They moved from a village several hundred kilometers away to be closer to their grandson. His father wanted enough land to plant potatoes. His mother wanted chickens and a goat.Mykola said no. Картопля за мною. ('I am responsible for the potatoes.") He also promised to provide his parents with milk and eggs. What has all my work been for if I can't give my parents potatoes and dairy to last the winter. He is trying to transform his father from being a substiance farmer to a gentleman farmer of leisure. He wants him to choose to garden instead of being forced to garden.

(In contrast, in Frankivsk, we visited a home where the garden was every inch of available land. The owner knew how many pototo plants he needed to feed his family through the winter. He had beehives that made honey adn traded with the neighbors down the street for eggs.)
(Also in contrast, Yatsura's in-laws started their farm in 1991. It covers practically all of their land and they continue to harvest veggetables, fruits and honey as they live in the center of Kyiv.)
(Similary, Froliak and Soloviov have started a flowerbed-syle garden. They set aside a piece of their front lawn for fresh veggies. I doubt that they will do any canning this year.)

Mykola Kanishevsky (House Tour Downstairs)


Mykola took the left-over building materials from the house and designed and built a jungle gym for his son. It's across the pond that he created by damming up a stream that ran through his property. This is a piece of land that he bought after he started building the house. Originally the spot was used as a dump by the village residents. He cleaned it up and hauled our the garbage. Old habits die hard. Some villagers kept using the area as a trash dump. He cleaned it out again and put a fence around it. Once he built the playground for his son and a house for his groundskeeper the dumping stopped. Mykola had priced out the cost of a slide for the jungle gym. It was pricey, so he used a piece of plastic instead. My daughters checked it out and gave the whole set-up a big thumbs up.


A big piece of the side yard between the main house an the stream is handed over to a lawn. Mykola set up a table for the kids to have dinner as a picnic while the two of us ate dinner on the front patio. We could see the kids, but they were able to run around and play. In addition to a part-time governess/house keeper, and the groundskeeper, Mykola hired a driver/fixer to helps with the cooking and running the house. The evening that I was there, the driver/fixer kept an eye on the kids after the governess left, then gave us a ride back to our apartment in the center of Kyiv.

The cabana is really an outdoor kitchen. It has a charcoal or wood grill and a gas range with several burners. The blue roof matches all the other buildings on the property. It is large enough to fit a table full of adults. The walkway goes from the cabana directly to the dining room and second kitchen on the ground floor.

Mykola set up this large room for entertaining. It is clearly a substitute for either going to a restaurant or for getting guests into the private areas of the house. The table was set for 10, but you could easily add tables and chairs to get almost twice that number. He put a sink with soap at the door. It reminded me of the Soviet cafeterias of the 90s (but there was never any soap nor paper towels). Later I saw the same sort of set-up at the swanky Columbus Circle Whole Foods grocery store in Manhattan.


Mykola put more built in bookshelves on the ground floor. He filled them with photos and objects from his archives. He works from home so I understand why he's put so much effort into decorating. It is an edited collection. Very different from the crammed shelves of apartments that I used to visit where the стінка was jammed with an entire family's books, mementos and bedding -- all in the living room.

Every house has a storage room. Perhaps the biggest indicator of the development of a middle-class in Ukraine is the emergence of stuff. Back in the day you didn't have anywhere to put your stuff. Also you were not like to have much stuff. It could be contained in your all-purpose stinka. Now, you can see stuff, buy stuff, and get stuff. That means to need to store it as well. Mykola built himself a wine cellar that has two alcoves. One is full of racks for bottles. The other side is a скад with, as he described it, the stuff that collects and is usually underfoot. He wanted a place for it, so he built it.

Mykola Kanishevsky (Backstory)

In 1993 Mykola Kanishevsky invited me to his apartment for dinner. We'd been working together for several years already. Two other people were coming that evening as well. Back in 1992, I'd convinced Mykola to leave his prestigious job at Ukrainian Television Channel 1 (UT-1). He was one of the main news anchors, still pretty young, but established enough that when he walked down Khreshchatyk, people would sometimes stop him and ask for an autograph. His parents did not live in Kyiv. (CHECK EXACTLY WHERE). Mykola was a member of the Komsomol Communist Youth League. He was pretty straight laced. Never a hair out of place. (INSERT PICUTRE OF MYKOLA AT YT HERE.) Mykola made it into the capital city and was climbing the ladder as any self-respecting tool.

Ukraine declared independence from the Soviet Union in 1991. It was ratified 18 years ago today on August 24, 1991. Mykola kept working at the State Television news operation. It was not only the biggest game in town, it was pretty much the only game in town. A few small channels had started to spring up by 1992, but very few were actually producing news shows.

I'd known Mykola from the air, then I'd been introduced to him at a few functions around town. As we started to pull together the International Media Center, and as we collected a larger and larger critical mass of people, a few of us sat down with Mykola.

This year, he told me that he could never forget me, since I was the person who "перевернула мені мозґи." Who turned his brains upside-down, and convinced him to leave his stable job and State Television to walk down the street and join us in creating an alternative.

At the time I didn't understand the significance of the move. I was fresh out of college, convinced that democracy would prevail. I had little to lose: no mortgage,no family, no career reputation. I had time and I had optimism.

Now (with kids, career, and mortgage), I see the situation differently. Mykola quit his job to work for something that barely existed. I'm certain that he must have left a safety net of some sort for himself, but the did make the move.

At the International Media Center, he developed, launched and let a TV news show called 'Вікна' (Windows). He later moved it to other channels. It became quite popular. The show is still on the air.

After a few years, he 'put television on a shelf,' and embarked on a new career being a real-estate developer full-time. Last summer, he invited me back for dinner.

Sunday, June 21, 2009

Ice Cream


Ice cream at the indoor-outdoor rooftop bar of the Kyiv Hyatt costs 28 Hryvny per scoop (at 7:1 HR:$). Stunning views. Tasty sorbet. European prices.

It is a far cry from that summer night in '92 when I decided that I craved vanilla ice cream on a stick (covered in chocolate.) Some crazy series of synapses fired off in my head and I decided that I would find that ice cream. Never mind that it was already dark (so it must have been after 9pm). Never mind that the supply lines that were cut in '91 were not up yet and everyone hoarded everything. The state-run monopoly was over, but a substitute was not exactly whirring along.

I dragged a few colleagues from work and convinced them that this can be done! We were setting up an alternative to state-run television! We can find ice cream!

It was fun and hilarious. We came up empty handed. No way to satisfy the ice cream craving that day. But then again, that was before the Hyatt.

After my mom and I joined the kids and cooled off in the rooftop breezes, we rode down to Kyiv Mohyla Academy and caught the tail end of Adam Michnik's speech. The event turned into an unplanned announcement to they Kyiv scene that Marta and Rostyk were back in town!

Saturday, June 20, 2009

Cycling

Things are always changing in Ukraine, and certainly a great deal changed since I'd last visited back in late-summer 2003.

One of things that caught me off-guard this time, was the large number of cyclists in Kyiv. Back in the day, you'd frequently come across a fellow riding from one village to another on a basic upright bicycle. (The kind of bike that is now tragically hip and on sale at the Jack Spade men's boutique on Bleecker Street in my hood for a crazy number of dollars.) Back then, the bike would be a beat up grey-black thing that was likely to have survived WWII. The rider would wear a cap and a worn blazer-jacket. I rarely saw a cyclist within city limits.

This summer, I saw many people zipping through the traffic on their mountain bikes. Several wore helmets. (!!) Some were doing some pretty technical maneuvers on the dirt trails on the banks of the Dnipro.

Apparently, cycling has hit Kyiv. Here is a short video piece about mountain biking in the mountains of the Carpathians in Western Ukraine.

Unfortunately, I never got a picture of someone cycling in Kyiv. Please post one in the comments section here if you happen to have one.

Olena Frolyak

Then:
Olena Frolyak and I first met in 1992 or 1993. I was looking for someone to send to an internship training program at CNN headquarters in Atlanta. She was a recent grad and working in journalism. I was at the Renaissance Foundation and collaborating with Internews Network.

Olena grew up in a village in the Carpathians. You should know that Kosiv is full of artisans who make beautiful household objects from wood. The decorative spoons, boxes and plates are carved by hand and have intricate inlays of beads an mother of pearl. Kosiv, in the early 90's at least, was *not* full of many phone lines. After meeting Olena in Kyiv, I was able to get things lined up for her to attend the program. She fit the profile of the program, she had the right background, was in the right stage of her career etc. But then the hard part started: I needed to get in touch with her. She was visiting her family in Kosiv, and their home did not have a phone. Somehow I got word to her via a complicated string of contacts. She got to a phone and called me back. The connection was horrible. I could barely hear her.

Somehow we made it. She collected her paperwork for the visa and shipped out to Moscow to process the paperwork. (This was before the US had a consular presence in Kyiv.) Olena returned to Kyiv crushed. Her visa application was denied. She was young and unmarried. The right profile for the journalism internship was the wrong program for the Consular division of the US embassy. Oops. Exchanges were still pretty rare are there were some kinks to work out in the system. I gave Olena a pep talk and assured her that we'll find a way to make it work. 'The US is opening an embassy in Kyiv soon. We'll apply for the visa here!' she remembers me telling her.

And it worked. The embassy opened. We reapplied. Olena went from the backwoods of the Carpathians to Atlanta, Georgia. CNN was booming. Olena returned to Ukraine and worked at several different news shows. (Including some that I helped to launch.)

Now:


Olena heads up the news operation for one of the largest broadcasters in Ukraine. She has been with the same company for about 8 years and took over the leadership less than 12 months ago. She also runs her own bi-monthly segment called SvitloNews (watch it at svitlonews.com.ua).

Olena married Serhij Solovyov, a camera man. They have 2 kids, a boy and a girl. After living in a small apartment in the city the family designed and built a custom home that is on the banks fo the river Dnipro and in the near suburbs. It's a 10 minute bus ride to the last metro stop. Their older daughter commutes from school on her own by public transport.

By the time they were designing their house, Olena and Serhij had traveled quite a bit. I had lined Serhij up with a trip to the US whe we were working together at the International Media Center. They've been to Western Europe, Asia, Africa. They collected ideas of houses that they liked and put it together to make their home.


The house is not huge. There is a nice foyer, eat in kitchen, master bedroom and 2 kids bedrooms on the first floor. The open stairs lead up to a den that is lined with portraits and awards of Oleana, the media personality. There is also a playroom and a small office, under the eaves where Solovyov has his computer set up to play video games. His father was an M-25 pilot in the Soviet air force. They travelled a lot, but Solovyov did not pass the eye exam.



Outside there is a big lawn. Instead of building a huge brick fence (as is currently the style) Olena and Serhij opted for an open fence. "Хай дивляться! Ми не майємо що ховати." (Let them look. We have nothing to hide.) is their explanation for the design choice.

Recently they planted a small garden. It is minuscule compared to what Olena and her neighbors had in Kosiv. We joked that it looked more like Michelle Obama's garden in the White House.

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

Living in Memory

It's a new Ukraine.
It's being made by the twenty-somethings
Language: Ukrainian, Russian, Dollars,
Extensive travel throughout Europe, Turkey, Egypt, then getting around to 5-year visas to the US

Role switch. Musical chairs. It's their turn now. Our turn to do a different role.

===
I'm reminded of Memory by Rauschenberg. When it was in the Princeton University Art museum, I wrote a paper on it. Rounding the corner at a museum (was it Bilbao? was it the Met?) I saw an old friend.
===
Traveling, retracing steps. It's comfortable. Walking down well-worn paths. Seeing old friends.

Yesterday I started to make new ones. Not intentionally. It was reluctant. I wanted to be just and observer so I went to an art auction fundraiser as a guest. Ja nestrymalas' I started talking to a few people. I wanted to be home around 10ish, so I left before I really got going.

Almost tested out the driving range and the 2-level golf club, but I looked at my Stewart Weitzman (sp?) espadrilles slingbacks and declined the offer from the very competent (Ukrainian-speaking) golf pro and headed out to meet the cab that someone had called for me.

Monday, June 15, 2009

Customer Service

Some times it's bumpy.

So much has changed since I lived here in the early-90's that I find myself getting lulled into some assumptions. There is food in the stores. There are waitresses in cafes. The garbage is being collected by garbage trucks from our apartment complex. I let down my guard. I take the kids out for some errands. We poke our heads in to the post office-internet-cafe room a block from the apartment. It's sleek and functional in that white plastic door handle euro-style sort of way. We walk down the block to the post office to mail some packages. The euro-door is there at the entrance. And then. We open the door. And are hit with an olfactory and visual blast from the past.
Visual:
Four postal stations. Each counter is a little too short (even for me!) to have a conversation without stooping. Each station has a glass partition with painted on letters that list out the specific services that the station provides: if you want stamps go to station 3. if you want to make a payment, go to station 2, if you want to mail a package, go to station 1. Luckily, my Resident Expert (and big promoter) of the UkrPotcha system, my dad, briefed me that I need to send an 'aviabanderol.' I go to station 1. People were standing at each window.

Olfactory
What is it about post offices? As soon as I opened the fancy euro-door from the street I was hit with the smell of waiting, stress, anticipation, annoyance. Basically, everything from the hours I spent waiting to buy a stamp or to book a phone call to the States, or to recieve a phone call 3 days after I had booked it. The post office still has all that.

Luckily, there were people working every station (both sides of each partition.) And the people on the far side of the partitions had supplies and computers (not an abacus to be seen). Unfortunately, they weren't particularly speedy. Finally when it came to be my turn, I managed to handle almost everything.

Overall, however the space was designed for the workers not for the customers. And it wasn't particularly well designed for the workers either. All the windows were closed (contributing to intensity of the olfactory experience, see above).

I emerge feeling rather victorious. The kids were champs and rather patient so we hit not one but two majdanchyky.
Then we meet my dad and go to asmall grocery store. Argh. 5 cash registers. You need to ask for each product, which means you need to wait until someone shows up to work each station.

It was a shock because I'd gotten used to things being slick and efficient.
It's a process. While I had my morning coffee I heard Radio Era do some interviews about the Constitution of Ukraine. Not much different from what I heard in the 90's.

Sunday, June 14, 2009

Tourist in Ukraine

For the first time, I am a tourist in Ukraine. After two weeks of visiting my old colleagues all around Kyiv, I switched gears and became a tourist. My cousins-in-law and my husband came to visit and I was the guide. Big discovery: This is a great place to visit.

I first arrived in Ukraine in 1989 on a student exchange program. (I was first denied a visa in 1976.) Not surpisingly, as a student in Odessa in 1989, I was not particularly interested in seeing the official tourist things. Then in 1990 on a different student program that was based just outside of Kyiv, I was even *less* interested in the formal, organized tour forced march to the important sites. (More on those adventures elsewhere.)

May 2009 is the first time that I arrived in Ukraine with no major (formal or informal) work agenda. Andrew, Christina and Tyra had never been in Ukraine. (Nor had my daughters for that matter, however they had little choice in coming or not coming. Their cousins are here.) The Palo Alto-based Bogan-Cragholms *chose* to spend their vacation time in Ukraine. I was the host and I got to see this place through their eyes.

I arrived in Kyiv two weeks before them and from the first day, I'd noticed many more tourists walking around than in any earlier trip. In addition to the requisite young backpackers that are everywhere on the planet, I've been seeing many seasoned euro-travelers. Couples of a certain age with sensible (but not clunky) shoes, clothes made from nice fabrics, holding a guidebook.

Andrew and Christina have lived in various countries (mostly Asia) and have done their fair share of travel. I was confident that they could easily handle any local inconveniences, even with their 20 month-old daughter. Luckily, there were (surpisingly) few bumps in the road.

- ATMs dispensed cash.
- Restaurants were open. (And they served food!)
- There was plenty to see: Each day was packed with walking around historic sites in Kyiv in Lviv (and we barely scratched the surface). We were not required to join a boring guided tour to get in anywhere.
- Buses were running (You could buy tickets on the bus!)
- Cabs were available (And didn't insist on dollars!)
- Our apartment had hot and cold running water. (The laundry machine worked!)
- Stores had diapers. (And wine!)
- Flights come straight to Kyiv (No need to transfer in Moscow!)

At various points in earlier trips to Ukraine I had run into situations where each of those statements was not true.

It was fun to be a tourist. I bought a guidebook. I read it. (Excellent. Well-written. Buy it before you come.) Bradt Travel Guide 2nd Edition by Andrew Evans

When I worked here between 1991 and 1994, I once met a guy from the States who was passing through Ukraine. He was like some crazy explorer: living off the kindness of strangers. It was so bizzare to meet an unconnected American, even in Kyiv. But then again, that before the US even had an embassy here. Now the place is crawling with people from different countries. Even tourists from Japan walk on Khreshchatyk. No one is buying blue jeans on the street.

The country still has lots of things to sort out, but the basic infrastructure for tourism is in place. Here's hoping that people visit and learn about it first-hand, and that Ukrainians learn from those that visit.